What it's like to attend The Tucson Gem Show as a Jewelry Designer

One of my favorite inspiration trips of the year is attending the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show.  It’s one of the world’s biggest and most loved exhibitions and markets of gems and minerals.  It's an annual experience that I treasure.   

I usually spend about a week in Tucson, but between the shows, sunsets and delicious food (Tucson is, of course, much more than just the gems show!) there never seems to be enough time.

I want to take you behind the scenes of what a gem show experience is like— from immersing myself in the array of raw stones, hunting for unique, unusually cut gems to connecting with my passionate global community of gemologists, miners, designers and stone cutters. 

WHAT IS A GEM SHOW?

Gem shows are events where dealers, master lapidaries (gem cutters), miners, collectors, gemologists and designers come together to showcase, buy, sell and trade everything from rough, uncut gemstones to finished jewelry pieces.  They can be small, local affairs, or in the case of the Tucson Gem Show, a large, international gathering.

WHY I ATTEND

Attending a gem show is a full-on sensory experience.  Stepping in is kind of breathtaking... It’s not just the sheer variety of gemstones in one place—though that’s striking.  As a designer, these shows are the place where inspiration takes place, where the raw materials for my next collection are likely waiting.

More than any other show, Tucson brings the entire global jewelry industry together.

I can learn about new materials, discover innovative ways to cut stones, craft new concepts and catch up on what is happening globally in the responsible sourcing space.  The show is often swirling with new ideas.   

And this is one of the beautiful things about the jewelry industry. It’s not run by a single monolith company, the gemstone industry is kept alive by millions of individuals around the world, independent companies and family-owned businesses. Some call it 'fractured', but I disagree. Part of the industry experience for me is supporting small businesses around the globe.

So, while in Tucson, I can connect with contacts from around the world and source a seemingly endless array of gemstones.  Dealers and miners from countries like Brazil, Madagascar, Japan, Thailand, and Sri Lanka often attend, bringing a diverse selection; diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, pearls, rubies... Some shows feature displays of fossils, minerals, and other natural specimens.  I could spend endless days exploring these incredible exhibits...   

Many times, the stones I select become one-of-a-kind custom pieces. Or I might draw inspiration from a gem I’ve found at the show for a new interlocking ring design.  Often, I’m hunting for a specific stone for a client’s custom designed engagement ring.

 

I must admit, I’ve been known to go home with more stones than I was looking to source.  I always look forward to that moment when I return home to the studio and I can sit, admire all the additions to my collection and start sketching new pieces.  

So, what is it like to attend?

11. I PLAN MY DAYS BUT LEAVE PLENTY OF ROOM FOR DISCOVERY

The Tucson Gem Show is gigantic, so I always plan to split my time between sourcing and exploration.

The show is a collection of over 40 independent shows held at different locations around the city, usually during the first two weeks of February. The main event is held at the Tucson Convention Center, but the show spills over into hotels and temporary exhibit spaces.  There are 4,000 exhibitors from over 30 countries offering a vast selection of gemstones, minerals, fossils, jewelry and more. Attendance can be as high as 65,000 to 70,000 people, from industry professionals and collectors to hobbyists, and tourists.  The formal show typically runs for about 10 days, but the overall event may span over two weeks due to the multiple shows happening simultaneously.

The entrepreneur in me wants to maximize my time in each location, but I must remember Tucson is a place for discovery. Making time to visit the smaller venues is as important as the high touch known staple shows.

My first stop is always the Ethical Gem Fair to see what came of this year's mining season.  I arrange a series of appointments with gem suppliers, most of whom have completed our transparency review. But I leave plenty of time for exploring. Ultimately, it's all about the discoveries... Sometimes wandering into a new exhibition hall or area will reveal something that sparks my imagination. 

12.THE GEMSTONES: RAW BEAUTY WAITING TO BE FOUND

The moment you enter any of the exhibit halls at the show, it's impossible not to be awed by the vast array of gems in all shapes, sizes, colors and textures.  My eyes immediately start to move over the tables.

Over the years, some of our signature pieces have come from stones I’ve found at the Tucson Gem Show.    A great example is our Brevity Pendant, which we recently relaunched with new materials I discovered in Tucson.

One year I found a 2.04 elongated cushion Alexandrite from the personal collection of a legacy gemstone enthusiast.  The color reminds me of my favorite cliffside in Hawaii, Makapu’u.  I still have not decided what I will make with it...

I believe in provenance-based design. Provenance-based design refers to the making of pieces with a knowledge of the origin and authenticity of the materials and craftsmanship, and cultural significance behind them.  It’s about respecting the journey of a piece, allowing the story of its creation to enhance its value and meaning. This type of design aims to connect the end user with the rich history and cultural significance behind what they own, making the product not just something functional or decorative, but something with a deeper emotional resonance.  I'm always designing with provenance-based design in mind, so the conversations I have with the miners and lapidary artists I meet will deeply impact my design and material choices.

3. The People: Connections That Fuel Creativity

The first time I attended Tucson years ago, I fell in love with the community of dealers, jewelers, gemologists, designers, and collectors.  They all come with so much passion, history and knowledge.   

I can talk to a gemstone dealer about the origin of a particular stone, ask a lapidary about their signature gem cutting techniques, or even meet a collector who has a story behind a unique group of stones they’ve brought with them.  Every conversation is an opportunity to learn and to be inspired.

Through conversations with gem collectors, lapidary artists and miners, I have come to learn so much about all the steps involved in getting to the beautiful, finished product.  I love to go deep, listening takes each gemstone discovery to a new place.   This knowledge goes into each piece and creative decision.

 

One great example: Meeting the members of TAWOMA the Tanzanian Woman Miners Association in Tucson inspired me to support women miners and to be conscious of the powerful impact our design choices make as creatives in this industry.  With that in mind, I designed the Attune Necklace, featuring a red garnet from Moyo Gems, an independent mining program in Tanzania and Kenya empowering women miners.

 

Meeting representatives like Cristina Villegas with PACT has also helped raise my awareness about the difficulties facing these miners. This, in turn, has made me passionate about maintaining transparency in my jewelry-making process while also ensuring everyone along the way is treated fairly and with respect.  

The sharing of stories and the camaraderie that comes from being surrounded by people who love gems and jewelry as much as I do—it’s priceless. I always leave these shows feeling more connected to the world of design.  Over the years I’ve met new people who eventually became collaborators and partners and built lasting friendships.

4. The Inspiration: Where Ideas Begin

For me, attending a gem show is about igniting creativity.

A small, raw sapphire might give me the idea for a new collection, or the way the light hits a piece of jewelry might lead to a completely new design technique I want to explore.

I often come with specific needs or gems I need to source, but it’s the stones themselves that push me to evolve those ideas, to take them further. Whether it’s discovering a stunning-colored sapphire, a new texture, or an entirely new way to set a stone, there’s a certain magic in something that challenges my perspective and pushes me to create in ways I hadn’t imagined before.

Beyond the gemstones, the Tucson Gem show is filled with other amazing, ‘you have to see it to believe it’ objects. You can get just about anything carved in stone or sit on a giant Quartz crystal chair to 'charge your energy'.   I love this wild west aspect of the show for inspiration.   I always seem to walk away with a handful of crystal balls to bring out the magic!

5. The Fine Art of Responsible Sourcing

As much as I love the rush of discovery, attending a gem show is also about the details. When I find a stone I love, I spend time evaluating its quality—its cut, clarity, and color—and getting to know the dealers.   

But for me there are also the crucial questions: Who mined it, and where?   How do the miners and mining companies care for the land? What’s the story behind this particular gem?

The gem show allows me to connect directly with suppliers to ask these questions, ensuring that the materials I use are not only beautiful but also responsibly sourced.   These questions matter.  We value craftsmanship as well as asking where a gem is cut and by who as a path towards transparency, respect for human rights, and care for the planet. Our goal is to support in-region artisans whenever possible.

6. Leaving with More Than Just Stones / Final Thoughts

I’m never ready to go home, I always wish I had more time, but when the show finally comes to a close, I’m always amazed at how much I’ve learned.

The connections I make with others in the industry shape the work we create. For me, each gem show is a reminder of why I became a designer in the first place—to explore the beauty and power of gemstones, to create pieces that tell stories, and to be part of a community that respects the people in the creation process and celebrates the art of jewelry-making.

Until next time,

 Bliss Lau